Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Lake Superior and more

So Canadian officials allow us to enter their territory and we continue to head north on Hwy 61.




It had taken us about an hour longer than we thought to get this far, so we have to make a decision on where to go.  Initially we had talked about two areas, The Sleeping Giant, which is north of Thunder Bay.  Its a mountain formed like a Giant lying on his back, it's located on the Thunder Bay peninsula, follow a path that leads up to a cliff (Giant's Adam's Apple) with fantastic views of Thunder Bay and Royal Island.  The problem was I wasn't sure how far north it was, or exactly what kind of path it was, if you could drive at least part of the way, and if not, how long it would take to climb it?
Fort William Historical Park, description..."come experience 1815 through the eyes of Fort William's colourful inhabitants." Not sure if colourful with the extra "u" means anything but we decided to go to Fort William and if there was time after, see how much further the Sleeping Giant actually was.  Plus we were hungry and according to the brochure there would be food at Fort William.

We entered Fort William Historical Park just before 3 pm.  There was a huge parking lot, which was empty.  There was a separate RV parking lot, which had spaces for 40/ 50 RVs which also was empty.  Well, guess this is still the off season.  We continued right to a small parking lot next to the Visitor's center.  There were 4 cars there.  We figured the Fort was closed, but went in to the center anyway.
First, we saw a clock and found out Thunder Bay area is on Eastern time..so it was almost 4pm..(that actually made us even more hungry), and the Park was open until 5:30 pm.  It's open every day of the year.  Was it still worth going in?  The ticket seller told us the next tour was at 4 which we could make, and the village was open until 5:15 pm.  Well, we were here so why not.  The cost was $13 for me and $12 for Scott (senior discount).
The shuttle picked us up and took us along a river to a clearing.
                    There we were met by some "greeters", the girl was dressed in a long dress with a bonnet.
She lead us to the entrance to the Fort, but her questions were weird.  "Did you bring anything to trade today"  No     "Would you be willing to work while you are here"  No      Ok..what were we in for?

                                                  Side of the Fort.
Then we met our guide.  I can't remember his name.  He was already with three other people, and he lead us into the Fort.  First we entered Doctor McLoughlin's house, and though he wasn't in, our guide showed us his tools, his herbs and medicines and

                                                  his house.
The guide was always in character, which started to get a little annoying.  He then lead us into the general store, which had a huge array of hides, furs, blankets and traps.  Once again, we were asked what we had brought to trade by the fur trader.....duh....and that there was a possibly of credit.  Ok, I get it, but we really just wanted to see each building, and see things they used in 1815, not live there.  Our guide just kept talking and talking, time was ticking, we were hungry and so we ditched them.  Scott and I walked out the door and went on our own.
They had given us a layout of the village, and I saw where the Cantine Restaurant was and we headed for it.  When we went inside, it was set up with long tables with place settings and (of course) was no longer serving food.  Figures.  In the distance we saw our guide with the other three people, so we went the other direction towards the farm land.
Let's also make this clear, there was MAYBE 6 other visitors IN THE WHOLE FORT, so being on our own was not a big deal.  We were able to move our own speed (which if you know us that means fast, fast, fast) and see what we wanted to see and move on.  The Diary and Ice House was neat.  It was feeding time for the sheep and pigs (sure remind us its time to eat) and cows were in their stalls.  A guy dressed like a farmer (picture Charles Ingals from Little House), came up to us.  Scott asked him, "So when does it get busy around here" (meaning, when are there more visitors/tourists) and he answered, "We are busy everyday, there is much to do in the fields, especially now with planting."  Ok, staying in character, I get it.

We also viewed the Kitchen and Bakery, Powder Magazine (where they stored guns, powder, muskets and shot), Sleeping quarters for voyageur guides, the corner lookout and the wharf.  There was a women playing a fiddle in Main Square.  
In reading the brochure when there are a lot of people around, stuff is always happening.  I remember Williamsburg, or Greenfield Village in Dearborn MI, both historical attractions that had people dressed in costumes, doing what people did during early times.  I am glad we were not at Fort William when its packed with people but having virtually no one there, also seemed to lack something.  Judging by the size of the parking lot I am sure it gets very crowded in the middle of summer.
Was it worth stopping?  Yes, just because the place was so well kept, and they did a good job with the whole village.  The stuff each building had was pretty cool.  And it wasn't a bad price (I looked up Greenfield Village and its admission is twice as much)
Did I like the guides?  No, that's pretty obvious, but I am sure some people LOVE that sort of thing.  I like seeing each do their trade, I just don't want to be a part of their charade.

We left the Fort and went back to the clearing and the girl that greeted us was still there.  Scott said, "Can you be out of character now, we would just like to know where to go to get something to eat" and I added "like on the Lake or close to it".
She laughed, and gave us some suggestions and called for the shuttle to come get us.

So we set our sites on Thunder Bay, and dinner.  Who would have guessed that we could not find any place to eat.  Completely opposite Duluth, that uses their natural attraction, Lake Superior, to their advantage by allowing visitors to enjoy it, Thunder Bay was pretty dumpy.  The girl at the Fort had told us to go to the Marina, which we really couldn't find.  I know, go to the water and it's got to be there, right..no, we drove through the downtown area, then to the next area, whatever it was, and nothing, and never found the Marina.  It was after 5 (our time), and we wanted to get back to either the Two Harbor area or Duluth before dark.  There are a lot of curves, a lot of deer, and also some areas of construction.  We didn't want to drive in those areas in the dark.    I did see some buildings being constructed along one area of Lake front, all kind of joined together..like maybe a restaurant, and a couple smaller buildings..but that would not help us out today..so we said Good Bye to Thunder Bay, got back on the expressway and headed south.

 It didn't take long until we saw the Neebing Bar & Grill, if it's named after a county in Ontario, it can't be all bad, AND it had a totem pole right in the front!! selling point for sure!!

We ate outside, overlooking a sand volleyball pit, not quite the Lake but it was fine.

                                        Then we headed south, paying attention to the sign

                                          but did not see any Moose, Heather.


                                         The US customs allowed us back into the United States.

And we drove back on Hwy 61 along the water.  More great scenery and stopped for more waterfalls.

                                                   I love this picture


Temperance Gorge (I am above,water is running down to the right and into Superior)

Cross Creek Waterfall

Beaver Bay Waterfall

                                                             Beaver Bay

                                                         Vampire Deer

(Scott did have to stop 4 times for deer, they were either on the side thinking about darting or actually crossing in front of us)

There are other waterfalls that we didn't stop for.  Some were along the road, others a short hike, we just ran out of time.
A couple places in Two Harbors had no vacancy.  We decided to head for Duluth and stayed at a Holiday Inn.  This would mean only about a six hour drive to get home.

Next day, we woke up and headed over the bridge into Wisconsin.  Is this the end of our adventure??..No way, to break up the drive, we stopped at Chippewa Falls.  What's there?
We found the Leinie Lodge and then signed up for the 11:30 am tour of Leinenkugel's brewery tour.  This just happens to be my favorite craft beer.
 The Lodge does have a gift shop, and we each found something on the clearance rack..sweet.  We had received four coupons for sampling beer, and did so before the tour.
I had Honey Bear (mix 1/2 Honey Weiss and 1/2 Berry Weiss)  real good.
Then Pink Lemonade (mix of 1/2 Summer Shady and 1/2 Berry Weiss) realllllly good.  yes, it did taste like lemonade, and I know this mix would be toooo easy to drink.
then Sunny Bear (mix of 4/5 Sunset wheat and 1/5 Berry weiss). ok 
Scott had the Honey Bear, which he thought was good, then he left the Leinie Mixes and tried the Classic Amber which turned out to be his favorite, and finished with a Sunny Bear. 
 The tour is free, a nice surprise.  We started the tour by leaving the Lodge and walking over the river to these buildings.
 Our guide introduced us (by pictures) to Jacob Leinenkugel, who handcrafted his first batch of crisp, refreshing beer with a hint of European flabor.  In 1890 Jacob brewed 400 Leinenkugel's has grown into one of the most successful craft beers in the US.  Its the 7th oldest brewery in the nation and the 4th largest craft brewery.  It is currently managed by fifth generation brothers, Jake and John Leinenkugel.
In 1890 Jacob brewed 400 barrels of beer while his partner John Miller made the deliveries.  A few years later they expanded the brewhouse and production grew to 200 barrels a day.  Today, Leinenkugel's brews 1500 barrels a day.
We learned how the beer is made.  (Photos are not allowed to be taken inside the buildings.)  Water is the main ingredient in beer and Leinenkugel's uses only spring water.  There are 12 kinds of Leinenkugel's.  Not all are in production at the same time.  They have seasonal beer, and some classics that they bring back every so often.  Not all flavors are in all states but some kind of Leinenkugel's is shipped to all 50 states.
The Lodge does not sell cases or packs of beer on their premises.  They gave everyone on the tour a brochure with coupons and a map that shows all the locations (stores and restaurants) that sell their beer.  They give back to the community that has been their home for over 100 years.  They also gave us a post card and offered to mail it for us.  So watch for some mail, Nick!
Leinie Lodge is open year round.   Tours every half hour from 9:30-4pm Monday-Thursday and Saturdays.  Fridays 9am to 8pm and Sundays 11am to 4pm.

We left Chippewa Falls, just before 1pm and arrived back home at 4pm.  
Taking a drive along Hwy 61 Lake Superior is worth the trip.  I would not recommend driving into Canada, or specifically into Thunder Bay, unless you are spending more time there.  That area needs to utilize the Lake more, as it's amazingly beautiful!  There were many parks, trails, paths in Minnesota along the Lake, that we did not take.   This was the best time of year to go as it is tourist central during the summer months.  Wonderful weekend, wonderful weather, wonderful waterfalls!

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